I have finally surfed for the first time in my life! I don’t have a single photo to prove it, but I did it and I feel really proud over myself. It’s been a dream of mine for a very long time and I’m really excited to finally have taken the plunge. I have always been a little scared that it wouldn’t be as good as I had thought and that it’s one of those things that are better left as a dream. I love the idea of surfing, but I also hate being pushed under water by waves, falling and freezing cold water (which is anything under 30°C). So I have always suspected that surfing would mostly be a frustrating experience, but I was wrong.
We went to Noosa last weekend, which is famous for having really good beginner waves. So I booked a 2hour beginner lesson through our hostel (Noosa Nomads) for $45, got picked up from the hostel and was thought thought the basics. I’m impressed with the lesson and how they slowly built up everyone’s surfing skills. The lesson started on the beach with some beach safety and instructions about how to stand up on the board, etc. It didn’t take long before we were in the water practicing our new found skills. We started up with just trying to steer the board (without standing up) to get a feel for it and slowly built it up from there. Most people managed to stand up at the end of 2 hours and it’s really not as hard as I had thought.
I was one of the last people that managed to stand up, but I eventually managed to stay on for about 10 seconds or so (Yay!). I still can’t stand up the way that you should, but I have enough balance to stay on anyway. I’m pretty sure that all of those years riding the London tube without holding on has paid off. Something that I’ve always officially claimed was to improve my balance, but unofficially (and more accurate) was because I didn’t want to touch any of disgusting hand riles that millions of people touch every week.
I’ve sort of already started planning for my life as surfer pro.. At least in my head. #MakingDreamsComeTrue